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Hand wrist tendonds? 28-Feb-2011 At 11:46:35 AM Gavo

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On 28/02/2011 davidn wrote:
>Have to agree. Reading your posts, I get a sense of you wanting to push
>harder and harder all the time (e.g. you said in a recent post that you
>wanted to push your trad leading up a grade or two despite little consolidation
>at lower grades). There's no point being able to climb grade X on gear
>or sport if you only get to do it once and then have to quit climbing forever.

I agree to a point. I dont think I have a risk of injuring myself in the same way while leading a 19 (which presently Im not but am working towards), as I did while doing this boulder problem, because the 19 shouldnt (hopefully) involve some tweaky dyno.

So Im not sure I want to stop my push to climb a bit harder. Im almost at the point I want to be in my trad grades. Im not going to try and steamroll into consistent mid-20's which no pause.. Just trying to get the level I feel Im at.

And since the problem came from a bouldering injury, I "think" Im doing it in a sustainable way.

I hope so anyway

On 28/02/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 28/02/2011 Gavo wrote:
>>
>>Did you have the clicking too?
>>
>I think so, not sure what thats about............15yrs of soccer left
>me with ankles which now click at every step. They don't seem to be falling
>to bits, and they really have clicked at every step for the last 20yrs.
>I don't worry so much about clicking.
>
>>Yeah Ive only been climbing a short while. It was a boulder problem though,
>>you know what theyre like. To be honest, Ive seen people do it without
>>a dyno anyway, it was just my easy way to send it :) Not so easy in hindsight
>>though... Only because I f*#$ed it up though...
>>
>Learn to "Just say no" to tweaky moves.

I definitely will for a while now. Though I find those moves fun when I pull them off :( But I absolutely care more about climbing in general than doing some crazy move so Ill be way more careful now.

>If you're newish and psyched, you'll very quickly get strong enough to
>be injured a lot (unless you get cunning in a hurry).

That I agree with. If I did indeed to it when I landed the pocket, I guarantee I couldnt have held that move with 2 fingers and not a single other body part helping, when I first started. My fingers would have popped because it was a bit slopey and I didnt get them in too deep, they would have just slipped right off when I first started. This time though, they held, without too much effort in fact. Im really quite sure it happened because I stuck the move, but let myself sort of "fall" onto the hand/wrist. Probably could have avoided it just by tensioning my arm a little as I landed so my wrist/hand wasnt "shock loaded" or something.

>The best way to be
>good in the long run, is to remain uninjured and climbing regularly for
>a couple of years. Most young, frothing climbers don't manage it right
>and end up spending months on the couch with buggered fingers and/or shoulders............
> certainly logged a lot of down time in the first 5 years.

This injury has pissed me off enough to want to avoid more like it. And to think about some kind of training to strengthen the wrist.