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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Topic Date User
Mt York Accident 22-Jun-2010 At 9:52:17 AM Damo666
Message
>On 22/06/2010 td wrote:
>> Sure, its exciting
>>when the fear kicks in due to the possibility of a fall/injury through
>>a fall when climbing, but I think to call this part of the "adventure
>of
>>climbing" is incorrect. Would you ask your belayer to keep an extra 2m
>>of slack in the system to make it more adventurous? I think the adventure
>>should come from the actual climbing/sense of achievement when sending
>>a hard route; whilst the rope, quickdraws and bolts are simply a side
>product
>>necessary for the sport to exist. I would personally spend more time
>climbing
>>and enjoy it a whole lot more if routes were bolted in the fashion that
>>garbie describes.
>>
>>This of course is just my own opinion and as you say I'll no doubt be
>>told if anyone disagrees with me on this.

Maybe it depends on your definition of 'adventure'. Bolts as close together as described above might be fine in some crap quarry, but otherwise I think it's a disgrace. Seeing so many bolts in so many cliffs nowadays makes me sick to the stomach. Where will it end?

Uncertainty is the essence of adventure - any kind of adventure.

If you stand under a route and know that there is no fixed gear, that you will have to find placements for your pro, and you don't know where they might be, or if they're any good or maybe if there are any at all, then that is a good deal of uncertainty and thus that is adventurous.

If you stand under a route and can see shiny bolts glinting in the sun, or know that there are bolts in the route (and which are often placed in predictable places ie. just before the crux) then you know that you have protection - the uncertainty of being protected is gone, as are all elements of skill and psychology that go with it. The only uncertainty is if you are strong enough to reach the bolts, the rest of the experience is removed. Only convenience is added. If you crave convenience, why climb at all? Just use a ladder.

Bolts are NOT 'necessary for the sport to exist' at all. They are only 'necessary' for people who can't climb or protect a climb any other way, or who want to buy stuff to add to nature to make it 'better' or who can't leave something alone. They are only necessary for people who feel the need to impose themselves upon every bit of rock in the way they want.

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