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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Topic Date User
Mt York Accident 21-Jun-2010 At 6:35:03 PM Snappy
On 21/06/2010 garbie wrote:
>For what its worth, at the gym we put the first bolt at 3m, the 2nd at
>4, the third at 5.2, the 4th at 6.6 (we then have subsequent ones at 1.4m
>intervals but you could have them further apart). This follows a formula
>in the Euro climbing wall standard and takes into account rope stretch
>etc. and supposedly minimises the possibility of decking. So if this is
>the theory, should you follow it on the rock as much as possible, while
>taking into account the terrain and holds to clip from? If there's an "easy"
>section, should you run it out more than a metre to the second bolt, or
>more than 1.2m to the third?
>I'd reckon very few climbs have bolts this close near the ground, but
>maybe they should, if the terrain and holds suit.

A bolt at 3m seems excessive. To reach it you would have to be standing about 70cm of the ground! (Assuming you are say 170cm + 60cm of reach). Even 2m off the ground (ie, first bolt at 4.5m) is unlikely to hurt yourself.

(This assumes not death spikes on the ground etc etc).

High first bolts aren't a big drama, comparatively high second or third bolts are.

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