I always found it curious that (with respect to Fall Factor), it was better to have all that slack pulled up as you fail to clip the first bolt and crater off (i.e. changes from a FF of 2 to say FF 1.5 if say 2 m up with 2 m slack).
It never feels that way!
Similarly if I fell off halfway up Mt Theory (all overhanging, no ledges, no trees) while setting up a self belay system, I could fall 60 m with a mere FF of 1 (yes both ends were tied in...) |