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Over Bolting 8-May-2009 At 11:12:34 AM Sonic

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I think ultimately bolting practices should reflect the ethics of the area. Yes, I am a sport climber, but I do enjoy good trad lines too. As such, there is plenty on offer here in the Blueys. The good trad lines are left as that, Trad lines. Some are backed up with the odd bolt and become mixed routes. Then most slabs and overhangs are fully bolted because that is what our climbing community wants.

Go to Nowra, there is fully bolted cracks, eg. Rainbow Wreckage (24). That reflects what the climbing community wants there - bolts on everything.

In Victoria, the community likes trad gear to be used where possible with bolts only where worthwhile climbing can only be so protected. This is fair enough and also helps differentiate a different climbing style - where the mental factor plays a much bigger role than on bolted routes. That doesn't make you Mexicans more gutsy or insane, it just reflects a different ethos that I enjoy coming down to experience.

In summary, be respectful to the bolting ethics of an area before taking a dig at it. Really, putting up a new route is for the people who come to climb your route after you, so you would bolt or not bolt to give the people what they want.