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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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Over Bolting 20-Apr-2009 At 3:24:44 PM LeNuge

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They are definately not wire gate biners on the rings!!. I even went back and double checked (zoomed
in) the photo in question. (See Point Below)

I will have to vet all shots I put in for chockstone in future for any possible discrepancies that may
upset some people.

This route as others have mentioned climbs a prominent highly featured section of rock on the Right
hand side of Heathcliff. The start is particularly hard for the rest of the route (gr 18), looks like a
feature fell off or was removed by the FA's as it would not be long until it came down on a belayer. The
right hand end drops off two or so metre's back to the edge of the ledge and a slot 50m deep. To fall
off the start could potentially drag both climber and belayer into a very bad situation. Rock quality in
the lower section is not the finest rock by any means i.e border line crap, I get a little nervous pulling
on some of the jugs and I am only 50kg!. After looking at the photo again, I noticed that either the 2nd
bolt was lowered as it would have been in a hard spot to clip. The rest of the climb the bolts space out
a lot more in keeping with with grade and an improvement in rock quality. All said its a great climb for
the grade, with well protected sections and a totally unique feature you climb. Sure you could trad
climb it, but you could say that about 95% of routes out there. If that floats your boat, go for it and
dont clip the bolts, stay safe and enjoy.

My 2 cents.

LeNuge aka Dave Bateman