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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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The 9-Feb-2009 At 9:29:33 AM anthonyk

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On 8/02/2009 nmonteith wrote:
>It's also interesting to see that the carrots
>we have been clipping for all these years on popular routes are the smallest
>of the lot. Discuss!

well, even though the raumer bolts are longer they have a smaller contact area, just the small (<2cm) expansion sections. the body has to pull so you can't have that much grip just from the bash-in strength, actually i don't think bash-in strength should be considered at all, it has to pull while being tightened and manufacturer recommendations just say fit the bolt the exact size as the hole, ie don't expect any tension. so really you've got 2cm of contact length on ~8mm diameter, not 78mm of it, even if it is ift properly and done up tight.

in comparison the carrots are shorter but (potentially) have tension on a larger surface, depending on the amount of threading and tapering, and how the hole size compares to the size of the bolt. but its likely a fair bit more than the expansions, and hopefully in quite tight.

but.. from visual inspection when you're climbing you can't tell a great deal about a bash-in carrot, unless its actually wobbly you're still working on the assumption that whoever put them in did it right.