Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Topic Date User

self-unclipping quickdraw 29-Oct-2008 At 7:03:30 PM Paul

Message

On 29/10/2008 daave wrote:
>Was out at Centennial Glen today with Olbert and was on Madge Mcdonald
>- 12m 25. Was going for the redpoint with the draws already up. As I reached
>up to the final jugs on the ledge I was a little too pumped and fell. I
>had expected a nice 1-2m fall but no, I was in for a bit of a longer ride.
>Next thing I realised, I was upside down just below the first bolt!
>As I had fallen, The last quickdraw, inline with where my feet were, decided
>it would be a nice time to unclip itself which allowed me to get my leg
>caught behind the rope so I fell and was caught by the next one. Pity the
>bolts on were a little more spaced than the other climbs of the area.
>I came home and got Dad to have a look at my sore spots - Damaged middle
>finger joint and damaged Rotator Cuff. He reckons I'll be out for the next
>6-8 weeks which is a little devastating althought, it could have been ALOT
>worse.
>
>Looking back, I really have no idea how this actually happened but I can
>think up a few senarios.
>
>Has anyone else had a similar experience or got any reasons why this may
>have happend? I always try and face the rope-end of quickdraws with the
>spine in the direction of the climb but should this be the case for the
>end in the bolt too?
>
>Cheers.

Was it a wire gate being used with a removable bolt plate? these can allow removable bolt plates to slide off carrots.

Was it a bolt plate or U, ring etc.? It is possibe that an incorrectly orientated bolt plate rotating could place pressure on the gate.

or a back clipped draw could cause the quickdraw to be flipped over (prior to the fall).