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Lead fall Hard Rock CBD 25-Jul-2008 At 1:46:29 PM Paul

Message

On 25/07/2008 simey wrote:
>I agree with Stugang on this call.
>
>All this gym leading nonsense is fine if you want to imitate the actions
>of lead climber, but if you want to develop the number one skill in lead
>climbing (JUDGEMENT) then get on real rock (preferably trad).
>
>Lead climbing is primarily about assessing your situation and relative
>safety, not about fast clips and learning how to fall. The sooner you get
>on the sharp end (with an experienced climber to give you some feedback),
>the more comfortable you will become with lead climbing.
>
>Do you think all the pioneers who established climbs at Arapiles and elsewhere
>were experts at lightning clips and lobbing onto their gear. NO! They were
>skilled at reading the rock, staying in control of their situation and
>backing off where appropriate.
>
>If you live in Victoria, you have the best crag in the world (Arapiles)
>to learn to lead. And you can start lead climbing on your first weekend
>on rock. Get on routes well under grade 10 and start working your way through
>the classics.
>
>
>
>
>

But some of us arn't lucky enough to live 5 minutes drive from Araps.