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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries
Report Accidents and Injuries
Topic
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Date |
User
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minor mground fall off little thor, dec crag |
11-May-2008 At 7:30:32 PM |
Paul
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Message |
On 6/05/2008 bomber pro wrote:
>On 6/05/2008 belayslave wrote:
>>Best suggestion i can make is ditch a karabiner all together, use
>>a Maillon Rapide instead. A 10mm
>>oval or D-shape would be the go. tighten just past finger tight with
>>your handy leatherman and you'll
>>(never) rarely have any issues with it coming undone.
>
>This is exactly what should have been used! a regular carabiner will turn
>and in the event of a fall will
>be cross loaded (the weakest possible orientation for a normal aluminium
>biner)
>Only ever use a steel Malion for this type of activity!
>They have a guaranteed rating no matter what orientation they have.
About a month ago I bought a 10mm steel malion for this exact purpose. Today while procrastinating study I started sorting out my boxes of climbing gear. On closer inspection I found that one of my malions had ratings on it for directional loading and cross loading, 25 and 10kn respectively. I had always been under the impression that malions were not weakened when cross loaded. none of my other malions are rated like this, could this be a missprint on the malion? |
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