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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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Topic Date User

stupid damn tendons!! 21-Sep-2007 At 8:36:05 AM ngibbs

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On 19/09/2007 steph wrote:
> Also try palming and climbing as much as possible
>with an open grip instead of crimping.
Now here is a man with wisdom, finally! As i have treated many tendons,ligaments and muscle problems, the answer usually lies in an inbalance of muscle strength acting on the many joints of the hand causing excessive tension on some muscles or tendons or joints. Without assessing your strength the usual best practise is to work on your open hand strength which reduces the dominance of the big muscles moving the hand. I usually tape the two joints of each finger (when in the gym) which forces me to use an open hand - always works a treat!!!! When i started climbing a had 3-4months of pain in my tendons then i implemented this strategy and have never had a problem since (this was my first year of climbing and could continuing climbing 21 and 22 in the gym no prob. My advise is keep climbing but manage the problem properly. Rest - haven't got time for that sorry, must climb!