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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

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The Tower - Ground Fall 4-Jan-2007 At 1:43:41 PM tmarsh

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Part of the problem is that carrot/bolt plates were invented at a time when all biners were made from round or at the very worst, oval bar stock. Modern forging techniques are allowing the manufacturers to squeeze the metal out over the longitudinal axis, making the biner stronger or alternatively lighter for the same strength. As the biner gets more and more ovalised - making it better and better at resisting the forces from falls - the biner gets more likely to fail to fill the 'hole' in the carrot/bolt plate interface. The wire gate phenomenon is even more disastrous.

So we've got one standard anchored back in the 60s which is totally dependent on gear which has been in a constant state of evolution since then.