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A2 Middlefinger Injury
1:39:55 PM
Hi guys,
I hurt my A2 middle finger climbing. I didn't warm up :( .

The pain is located at the base of the inside of the finger. I feel it when I grip a jug or it hurts more especially when in the crimp position.
I cant feel the injury when i am not climbing.

Tape does not seem to help get rid of the pain ....or maybe i am taping it wrong.
It doesn't seem like a big deal (except it puts me off climbing) but I would prefer to climb without the pain.

Does anyone have any physio suggestions for this or any suggested no climb periods?


2:06:26 PM
A very common question which I'm sure others can give detailed answers to, but if you do a bit of searching you will find heaps of discussion on the subject.

Simple common sense is - if it hurts, don't use it until it doesn't hurt. Also, icing seems to accelerate the healing time a little. From what I've seen, most finger injuries heal in 4 to 6 weeks.

But the reason I am replying is just to give my experience this week. I had a sharp pain in my ring finger Monday night - a result of overdoing it a bit lately. Tested it out Tuesday night and still quite painful to put much weight on so I figure it will be pretty useless for a few weeks. So here is my taping solution...
I taped my injured ring finger to my pinky, not next to it, but so that it sits above/behind my pinky. Therefore I actually can't use the injured finger even if want to. I could climb last night fine without causing further injury. Hey, if Caldwell can do the Dawn Wall with 9 fingers, I figure I'll cope climbing 'Tommy' style for a few weeks :)

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