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Topic Date User

Injury at Spurt Wall 30-Apr-2015 At 3:03:30 PM kieranl

Message

On 30/04/2015 BBSR wrote:
>Only thing to be wary of when using single ropes in this way is that if
>you clip them both through one biner, and they have the same length out,
> they will pull tight at the same time in a fall, and give a harder catch
>(and more force on the gear) than one single strand of the single rope
>by itself. Lots of things you can do to manage this issue (stretchy
>ropes, care at high fall factor points, alternating clips etc).
>
Correct but clipping both ropes into one piece is mixing twin and double-rope technique. Double rope technique is alternate clipping. There's nothing inherently wrong with clipping both ropes into one piece but you're defeating the purpose of using 2 ropes on a short sport route. You're trying to minimise the fall-risk and maintain a soft catch. If you stick with alternate clips your belayer can anticipate what you are going to do. You need to practise with your belayer too. Paying out 2 metres on one rope while not paying out on the other, and maintaining the belay integrity takes some practice.