I elected to bypass the first bolt on that pitch entirely to avoid drag, as using a long sling on that bolt wouldn't keep you off the ledge in a fall.
But, is there reason to think that this accident was really caused by inexperience/negligence? Falling while clipping always leads to long fall, and 10m wouldn't be exceptional. Say the bolts are 3m apart, a fall at the next bolt would be a minimum of 6m, probably more like 8 with rope stretch. With an extra 1m of slack for clipping, a 10m fall would be normal. It sounds mostly like bad luck to me. |