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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

Topic Date User
2013.06.02: Another El Cap death 6-Jun-2013 At 4:54:40 PM Wollemi
Message
On 5/06/2013 White Trash wrote:

>>>It seems like the leader dislodged the rock that killed his partner.
>>
>>
>>Sadly the question is not hypothetical, but I'm interested in hearing
>>views: how would you extract yourself in that situation?
>>The leader was more than 1/2 a rope length up the pitch.
>>

>guess i would... tie off short each time and take falls piece
>to piece (possibly removing some them as I go), till back at belay


With each fall from piece to piece, wouldn't you be jolting and then jerking your prone injured climbing partner?

Tie off the rope to bomber pro or the bolt you are at, and prusik down to your companion. This may still jerk at them if the rope is tight at the belay for whatever reason.

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