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Climber injured in bluies after 30m fall 2/Jan/13 22-Jan-2013 At 1:31:24 PM oldtraddad

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Hi Guys

For those not interested in maths there are two points relating to this that I think need clarifying, and as well as wishing the injured climbers a speedy recovery their response to clarifying here could be useful.

Shock loads (large forces over short periods of times) magnify anchor failure possibilities. "Stuff rips out when you yank on it".

Was the belayer clipped into the single cam belay with a static sling/daisy/lanyard? and were they either to the side or not tight below this?
If so this does produce greater loads it is always better to attach in with the climbing rope. A clove hitch is a great knot for this, easly adjustable without coming off the anchor.

Was the belay device a self locking device, like a gri gri eddie etc? If so the lack of slippage increases peak loading. especially once runners pull and the load is downwards onto the belayers harness.

If your climbing on gear really consider an ATC type belay device. If you end up with a fall directly onto the belay the slippage can burn hands but drastically reduces loading on an anchor.

Best wishes and be safe out there