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Topic Date User

Pete Whittaker, 1st ascent Baron Greenback E9/10 7 27-Oct-2013 At 8:29:57 AM Olbert

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On 26/10/2013 Karl Bromelow wrote:
>I will if someone promises to replace all those carrots with sensible hangers
>; )
>
>The bolts were placed by aid climbers back in the mists of time. A few
>ancient bolts exist on various gritstone crags such as Caley, Burbage,
>Wimberry. The bolts were placed by climbers who probably couldn't imagine
>such routes going free. Possibly before the ethic of no bolts on gritstone
>or UK mountain crags became entirely "set in stone". The ethic is welcomed
>and enjoyed by most informed and respectful British climbers. It adds spice
>to what are precious edges in a country with a large climbing community.
>It's not at all complex or irrational, it makes simple sense. Hope that
>helps.

I think I can live with (being 10000km away :p) the whole bold head point thing but it seems to me that this route only has three points of pro - the three dodgy bolts (not including that sling down low with 17 biners on it). This route seems more about peoples willingness to gamble with their own lives and climbing careers by falling on them than their skill in placing pro and climbing.

It also seems to me that the next step for this route is to be free soloed. Remove the bolts - then at least there is no uncertainty if you fall. I can't decide if this is rational or not.

All that said, just because somebody else enjoys climbing a different style to me doesn't mean they are wrong (just silly)! It would be a very boring climbing scene if everyone climbed what I like to climb.