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Crimping vs Open hand
lost tazmaniac
8:24:14 PM

Climbing tips ... We all should be doing it this way?

9:22:04 PM
I seem to remember Eric Horst explaining it pretty well (probably) in his Training for Climbing book.

His argument was to use open hand for _training_ to strengthen the grip and protect the tendons. He didn't say not to use the crimp though - just to use the crimp when you really need it when sending hard routes and not repeatedly when training.

Of course I should probably go back and read it again to make sure I'm not completely making that all up, but I've got no idea where my old copy of that book is :(
lost tazmaniac
10:36:16 PM
Yes .. I agree.. Just watched Mayan work her magic on punks.. Thumbs on crimpers .. This was forwarded to me by a friend who is just starting .. Don't practice in gym .. Just practice occasionally .. Don't repeat too much? Would be the advice..

9:42:48 AM
I bought a hangboard this year and started investigating the obsessive world of hangboard training online. There seems to be three camps:

1. Those like the rockprodigy and Ryan Palo who believe that training the crimp actually leads to less injury as long as it's done patiently and systematically - their argument is that training should be grip specific and by training and strengthening that grip safely you are less likely injure when actually climbing ;

2. Dave Macleod has a blog post on to crimp or not, there are a number of top UK climbers who've completed really crimpy routes but only train open hand and half crimp.

3. People like Dr. Julian Saunders who say full crimp should be avoided altogether - think he argues open hand will get just as strong over time

Personally I decided I was not disciplined enough to train like those in camp 1, I also had a naturally strong crimp and really weak open hand, so I tried training and always using open hand only for about 6 months. I found my crimp strength stayed the same but my ability to hold slopers increased heaps
lost tazmaniac
2:39:52 PM
I posted this for various reasons -
where are beginners to look for 'instruction' .. and the responses to date have been great - balanced and informative..

2.My partner has climbed with this crimping technique for more than 7 years and has never had an injury.. and was surprised to learn of this opinion.. remarking that she preferred the crimping technique as she had less power with open hand and felt she might injure herself that way..

my fingers are fat and sausage like so I tend to use the open hand technique as the crimping rarely presents itself as a viable option..

7:12:12 PM

here is one solution. the semi open handed 5 finger crimp. hahhhaaa

There are 6 messages in this topic.


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