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Topic Date User

Grit Ground Up 30-Apr-2012 At 7:40:26 AM davidn

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Dalai: I get the sense you think I'm disrespecting the routes talking about them in V grade terms, because it ignores the history, aura, awe, mental side etc.

But... all climbs have mental and technical difficulty associated with them (in some cases the one is very high and the other comparatively low). Talking about technical difficulty doesn't necessarily negate or ignore the mental aspect. Anyone who's watched Hard Grit realises how difficult the mental side can be! As do I. If you're talking about how physically difficult the moves are, what better grading system than V grades (or font) - because it's a grading system that focuses on technical difficulty. In this case, thanks to Dave J I have a much better idea of what Mr Caminati achieved - sending spoogy dangerous highball V3+s (over bad landings) ground up.

As an aside, I note that even Adam Ondra can fall off a Font grade 5!

Macca: I'm glad you got to mention Shai Hulud ;) Yes, we should all imbibe more cement and climb harder on sketchier things, myself included. I try to tackle all my climbs ground up; I've never top-roped a sketchy boulder problem (not to say I wouldn't). I'll let you know when I break the next ankle or leg (by PM - I understand public discussion of injuries is frowned on here and may indicate the discussant is not 'ard enough ;)