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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

Topic Date User

Yosemite/Font/Stanage Pilgrimage 2-Aug-2006 At 8:52:07 AM Stuey

Message

Unless you can happily live with adding more shit to the already messed up rock, leave the pof the alone and use chalk. I have NEVER had to use pof in many trips nor have I had a bad word said to me about chalk and most of the local (certainly the younger generation) have embraced it and use it. I've even had guys asking to use some of my chalk before. This myth that you're going to get lynched if someone gets a sniff that you're using the white stuff is a load of bollocks and is perpetuated by the old gits at the COSIROC site.

BTW: Abbatoir is shite.

Classics:

Excalibur at Cuisiniere
Mini Karma at Isatis
Beurre Marga at Isatis
Jet Set at Roche Aux Sabot
Rubis Sur L'Ongle at Gorge Aux Chats
Magic Bus at Buthiers (should be a pushover if you're strong from HMC!)
Festin De Pierre (great sequence of moves) and Duroxmanie at Cuvier Rempart
The whole blue circuit at Roche Aux Sabots
The whole red circuit at Bas Cuvier
Many of the blacks at L'Elephant
Le Science Friction at Aprement
La Marie Rose (polished to f*ck but a must do simply for the history)
Le Statique at Isatis
Slopey 6c? on the block to the left of the above
Kangaroo City (dyno) at Isatis
Vin Rouge (dyno) at Isatis
El Poussif at Isatis
Eclipse at Cul Chien
Cul De Chien roof (awesome - a must)

Now the softest 7a (V6's) for that confidence boost:

Cortomaltese at Bas Cuvier
Clin D'Oeil at Aprement
Bizarre Bizarre at Cuisiniere
La Rhume Folle at Bas Cuvier
Boule De Nerfs at Boissy Aux Cailles.
Holey Moley at Bas Cuvier
Little Arete by the path in Cuisiniere

That should keep you going....