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TRIP: Buffalo North Wall including portaledge party!
Date Attendees Invite Status
21/11 To 28-Nov-2005 IdratherbeclimbingM9 (TENTATIVE)  PUBLIC CANCELLED

Buffalo North Wall including portaledge party!

2:23:05 PM
I haven't posted in a while as ive been in britain sampling their famous gritstone, but my return to australia is coming soon. Basically after I get back a few of us from canberra are making the pilgrimage to arapilies for a few months. On the way down however there are plans for a week long stop at buffalo hanging around on the north wall.

I thought I would mention this as a public trip but realistically, if you want to come it has to be as a independent pair or three. We will probably not do a single route but rather hang around and do different pitches on different days, sampling from ozy, gumtree, caulfield. We may stay on big grassy (+ ledges) or we may just set up portaledges up at gledhill biv. Also there has been talk of rapping in with all the gear/beer. Ideally I would like to spend a week on th north wall, as then I hope to convince some in canberra to come for the first and last weekends of the week.

Basically as there was talk a while back of a portaledge gathering I thought id post this, and if anyone else wanted to organise being there around that time, it would be awesome. If you are interested please post here or contact me > <. Also let me know what route you would do or whether you would rap in and sample pitches. I think we are going for holden caulfield, but I'd love to redo some of the Ozy direct pitches my partner led last time.

2:26:23 PM
Need to check dates with family, and not keen if weather is cactus.
Interested in abseiling to certain pitches of CQ and/or CR.

10:42:25 PM
come on > anyone else....?

gfdonc? are you keen? its been a year since your "aid 101" trip report? maybe another shot at knocking
on heavens door?

neil? It was your "three day bigwall" report which first sparked my interest in aiding, leading to an
eventual ascent of ozy direct! surely you want to keep inspiring the next generation?

9:09:27 AM
Is there a specific date for this trip? My weekends up to xmas are pretty booked out so far...
10:18:23 AM
Truth is, I could be talked into most things if the posse has enough enthusiasm and gusto ...
M9 don't you have a long spool of rope that needs to be dropped from Wilkinson's?
10:19:52 AM
Hey while i think of it, the front page of the Age this week quoted Reg Marron (a legal eagle) - something to do with terrorists being arrested. Is this the same Reg Marron that used to make his own bolt hangers? (see my KOHD trip report for details).

10:49:58 AM
sounds like serious fun.
if there's room for aid beginners, i'd definitely be interested.

10:50:45 AM
Same one.

11:53:21 AM

1:37:10 AM
damn you people for tempting me into something i can't do!!!

3:01:42 AM
are none of the experienced aid climbers taking local aid bumblies under your wings???

I would offer to take some newbies one some easier things but
a) I am not that experienced
b) I already have a few freinds who have on first dibs on becoming my apprentices!

we must pass on the secrets of aid/big wall to keep the dream alive!
11:20:45 AM
I did take a cameraman into the Gledhill bivvy on Ozy Direct many years back. He wanted to film some closeups on the wall for a corporate video they were making (for one of the insurance companies).

He had no climbing experience but did have some ropes management know-how from working on masts of yachts. We strapped him into a harness and booted him off Wilkinson's on two ropes tied together. Someone had to aid back in under the roofs to clip the belay bolts. Then one of us pretended to clean the corner leading up to the bivvy for the film. We jugged back out.

His impressions were at the time "well, it's not so bad here after all, is it?". Reinforcing the view, that, after 5 minutes hanging from a couple of bolts with 200m of exposure, your brain just gets used to it.
1:22:53 PM
On 11/11/2005 gfdonc wrote:
>Hey while i think of it, the front page of the Age this week quoted Reg
>Marron (a legal eagle) - something to do with terrorists being arrested.
> Is this the same Reg Marron that used to make his own bolt hangers? (see
>my KOHD trip report for details).

Yup, it's the same Reg Marron who made a hole in his hammock to let the water out during a wet ascent of the North Wall at Buffalo. All was not lost though, he had a spare! (Wot! Don't you take a spare of everything in your haulbag?)
3:26:38 PM
reg may have a spare of all climbing gear but once drove to buffalo without a starter motor in the car . The second class passengers had to push start it each time.

7:27:35 PM
Apologies all (not that anyone was going to come all) but I am now going direct to arapiles on monday as my partner cannot come and do a bigwall! So no big party at buffalo!


12:15:44 PM
maxots wrote 20-04-06 on another thread;
>we're all heading down to buffalo for a portaledge party so maybe we'll do some scoping!
If I can manage the time, I would love to be in on it.

...maxots; you may have to resurrect the status of this trip (in the thread header), as it is now no longer cancelled?

7:30:31 PM
hi M9

um these are two completely different portaledge parties.

we leave tommorow night (fri) sat night will be on the wall.

unfortunately we already have 11 people (i think all but one are planning on sleeping on the wall) but if you
wanted to drop a portaledge down near us, hell why not!

happy aiding

There are 17 messages in this topic.


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