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Topic Date User

Beginners Crags? 1-Sep-2013 At 10:04:55 AM snowkiwi

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Where have the beginners crags gone?

I used to climb a lot (back when I was a lot younger and lighter, and in a different country). When I had small kids I [stupidly] let it become an excuse to slow right down. I've still got my gear and use it a bit, but I don't know the lay of the land here like I did "back home".

Now that my kids are a bit older and they're interested in climbing, I want to take them out to some easy crags. Sure, I know learning to climb in the gym is great, but I have some problems with climbing in the gym.

1. I'm cheap. I have the gear so a day at the crags is free whereas 4 of us in the gym is not.
2. My kids love the gym, but struggle finding holds on real rock. They only climb somewhere around grade 11-12, so I'm not really surprised. Especially when all the crags list 16-17 as beginner and anything graded 11 is described as a "dirty dark corner". Wow, that sounds inviting to introduce a climber (especially a kid) to the love of climbing.

The Warrumbungles look great for this if you live anywhere near Coonabarabran. Arapiles has so many climbs that you should find some low lever climbs scattered in there somewhere.

Where are the beginner crags - the ones that inspire people to want to keep doing this? Where can I find a CLEAN climbing area with 2-3 grade 11-12 climbs and 5-6 grade 13-15 climbs that kids and other beginners can learn to love climbing on? I'm in Sydney, so my direct interest is around the Sydney area, but I'm sure this question applies to the whole country.