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Piddo tomoz anyone? 22-Oct-2012 At 8:35:46 PM PThomson

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Hehe. Would that it had beer, it would be the epitome of a perfect climb =P

It's under the Megalong Valley section of the new Blue Mountains Guide. 48m grade 20 single-pitch (though it can be split up), predominantly finger crack. Lots of 0.4s, 0.5s and 0.75s will come in handy, but don't forget a 4 or two (and maybe a 5) for the 2 moderate off-widths.

The original walk in is still valid (I've done it a few times now) but these days it is basically a 45min bush-bash. As you get closer to summer, the leaches multiply ad infanitum... I still have nightmares of Aarond, 15m up the climb, flicking leaches down at me (on belay), as they emerged from places on his person that I'm afraid to think of.

I'm working on another access route from the top of the cliff, (near Medlow Bath) which saves 15min drive time, and takes 20-30min at the moment. When I finish the track it will take about 20min to the chains (at a reasonable pace). Then you can rap in and climb out. Right now it exists, but is kind of hard to navigate if you don't know where to go. I'm trying to do this "minimal impact", which makes it a bit harder.

Right now the top 50% of the crack is clean, but I need another day to clean the bottom section and finish the track. Then I'd suggest waiting a week or two for some rain to wash out the ambient dirt and make it a truly pleasant crack climb.