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Of cyborg and creator – Rutger Hauer 11-Mar-2013 At 6:50:23 PM f_ladou

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My two Replicant friends, Alex and Dominik, suggested we did Rudger Hauer over the weekend. The weather was good in the Blueys on both days but I had to work on Saturday sanding 210 meters of blackbutt for my carpenter Richie: so Sunday was the day. I re-read this very trip report before we left and I was curious to see if my perception of the climb would have changed (would change? will have changed? whatever).

Dominik was particularly keen to try this one as he missed out the last time. For reasons I can't remember exactly, we did the climb at the time with the diminutive, yet impressively muscular and sparkling, Replicant Shaz (better known a Shazza to some of you).

Three years ago, the climb was graded (105m, 20, 22, 23, 19) and now, according to 2010 edition of the Blue Mountains Climbing (BMC) guide, it stands as (105m, 19, 21, 23, 19). I think with hindsight, the latter grade is indeed closer to reality.

The first pitch is definitely not a 20 but is very consistent over the whole length: pumpy on big holds but offers no particular difficulties. Alex did found it pumpy but hardly broke a sweat seconding it. The second pitch was almost exactly as I remembered it with a hard crux just below the belay. Alex lead that one and to Dominik's despair ("Nooo....") took a break just before finishing. I think Alex regretted a little his decision (un petit peu).

The money pitch was and still is the third pitch. Dominik was in charge of this one since he missed out on the first time. If you ask him, he'd probably tell you that he's not too proud of his performance but, on the other hand, he loved it: "Fantastic pitch, loved it". BTW, the photo of Steve Moon on page 281 of the BMC guide in not only very impressive but shows exactly where the crux of the pitch is. By then, you are pumped after a good 20 meters without rest and you face a slight overhang veering right to the belay ledge. This one deserves its grade and a few stars next to it.

The last pitch is still only a formality: big holds (mainly iron stone) to freedom.

I don't think Rutger Hauer has seen much traffic since I last wrote my trip report 3 years ago. The footpath along the cliff is now, well, inexistent and there was no trace of chalk anywhere. Now it's all chalked up cos Alex has got some weird fetish. So, all you have to do now is follow the chalk marks. You won't regret it.

Cheers, François