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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
Returning swallows
tonytas
3/10/2012
12:58:20 PM
Must be spring in Tas, with climbers returning home with the swallows and posting trip reports of their adventures. Anyway, a sort of trip report from the Dolomites, for you edification and possible amusement.
http://www.thesarvo.com.au/confluence/display/thesarvo/2012/10/02/Dolomites+Trip+Report+from+Tony
Cam McKenzie
3/10/2012
3:08:17 PM
Nice one Tony,
Did the Fedele / Dibona route on the Sass Pordoi last year. Other than having to belay and climb the occasional waterfall (we were a bit early in the season) it sounds like it was a whole lot more enjoyable than your caving adventure!

Looks like the south face route starts from the mega scree death ledge half way up the main face? Man that was scary to walk across in places.
tonytas
3/10/2012
9:18:33 PM
Starts from the scree below the ledge but includes it in the climb. Scary ? An easy place to die...
What was the Fedele route like? Looked really good, wish now we had done it, maybe next time.
Cam McKenzie
4/10/2012
7:45:25 AM
Fedele route was really good. We were pretty slow due to some route finding difficulties near the top, so we skipped the section after the scree band in the middle (the top 7 or 8 pitches of the dibona), so had to do the massive screen traverse all the way around. Was pretty scary in places I've gotta say, the whole thing feels like it's about to slide off into the void.

In retrospect, we would have simulclimbed a lot of it. There's a fair bit of scrambling, but there are a number of really good more technical pitches. All of the IV and IV+ pitches were very good. Route finding near the waterfall at the top was difficult (I got lost wandering around for hours climbing up and down following random pitons and ending up in yellow choss with a single peg covered in tat. Did a lot of downclimbing). The way to go is actually pretty obvious once you work it out.

Bloody good effort by Fedele back in 1908 or whenever it was.

There are 4 messages in this topic.

 

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