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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
Passport To insanity April 2012

bardboy
11/06/2012
8:29:20 PM
G'day all,
I thought you might be interested in watching a vid of our last climbing trip in the Grampians.
The inspiration for this trip came from viewing Stu and Dan’s ascent of PTI back in 2006. After fine tuning our aid climbing techniques (climbing and cooking) we finally added “The roof” of PTI to our tick list. 7th Pillar = Done. Ozimandias = Done.
This is a tale of 3 lads having a great weekend of fun on one of Australia’s best ”big wall” climbs. No need to ramble on about this trip as the video speaks for itself. I simply say grab a beer or cup of tea and enjoy all 3 vids (40mins or radtastic climbing distraction). Oh, I’ve removed the sound-track from these films to keep Youtube happy, so when you watch it just imagine the most awesome and inspirational music ever.
Vid 1:
http://youtu.be/jkqCqHqQJyQ
Vid 2:
http://youtu.be/2oPrnyKwJH4
Vid 3:
http://youtu.be/5N6cQ65Uh-g

wallwombat
11/06/2012
8:46:15 PM
Congratulations but when did Passport become a big wall climb?

It's a couple of pitches long.

bardboy
11/06/2012
8:58:07 PM
True. It’s not really a “Big wall” but rather a fantastic Aid route. Or free-climb route for those who are capable.

Miguel75
16/06/2012
10:52:33 PM
Well done guys. It looked like tons of fun, especially the big swing.

muki
17/06/2012
9:31:53 AM
On 11/06/2012 bardboy wrote:
>True. It’s not really a “Big wall” but rather a fantastic Aid route. Or
>free-climb route for those who are capable.

Ive climbed the 20M2 version what aid grade would you consider the first pitch to go at.
simey
17/06/2012
11:02:29 AM
Had a look at the vids although was hitting the fast-foward quite a bit. Edit the whole thing down to under 10mins and it will be much better.

Too bad you didn't make it to the summit. A lot of parties climb the roof, but there is a fair bit more involved in reaching the summit as well as getting down again.

Can't believe how much equipment you guys carry. 'Fast and light' certainly isn't your approach, but at the same time I admire the fact that you guys stick with it and get your arses up some mega-classic, adventure climbs.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7/07/2012
11:30:16 AM
I finally got the time to watch the three vids in their entirety and enjoyed them, but I tend to agree with simey that they could be edited down and still retain the flavour; ... though as one who enjoys portaledging myself I was torn between 'experiencing' the climb with you in the long-format, and knowing that a briefer version would suit a wider audience.

It is interesting the snafus that can be picked up on by careful watching...
The final abseil down appeared to have wired pro interfering with the abseil device as climber left the anchor.
See here... (but I don't know how to stop the vid running on...)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5N6cQ65Uh-g&feature=player_detailpage#t=741s
(ie at 00:12:21 hrs within it).

Like simey, I am surprised you did not top out the climb; and given the windy conditions, am even more surprised that you flagged the ledges on the abseil instead of packing them on the wall for a less damaging to them descent?

You obviously had a great time, and the portrayal of it was certainly candid (includes the last sound portion after the credits!), which should not only serve your memories well in years to come, but also fire the imaginations of those who may wish to follow in your climbing steps!

~> Another thing I am curious about, regarding the swing: ... did you consider the options of having the rope padded at the edge of the roof? ... or a backup line?

Thanks for sharing.


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