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The Last Kind of Hunger: A New Route on LWF 6-Apr-2012 At 7:30:52 PM stuart h
The Last Kind of Hunger (21, 90m)

Thoughtful and aesthetic climbing with good protection on brilliant rock. Harder and perhaps a bit more committing than Take Five but without the runout at the start (although you want to concentrate for the start of pitch 3). The line is obvious in the photo on p273 of the current Tempest/Mentz guide.

Start up Watchtower Chimney Direct Start, the bottomless crack 3mR of Take Five.

1) Take Watchtower Chimney Direct Start to the base of the corner, step left and head up the water-smooth slab (21) between the corner of Watchtower Chimney and the obvious streak of Take Five. At one point high on the pitch you can reach right to place a runner in the corner but continue climbing directly up the slab to belay on the small ledge as for Watchtower Chimney.

2) Head up left across the Pantouflage crack. Either climb seams up the blunt arete - excellent protection but hard with a slopey finish (24? not lead cleanly on 1st ascent), traverse further left to follow Take Five (19) or step back into the crack (the crux is the forestry required to exit back left onto the slab) to reach the ledge.

3) Move the belay into the bottom of the Driftwood chimney. From the base of the chimney, initially move up left towards Wall Of The Afternoon Sun with poor pro for 5-6m, then step back right to head directly up the streak (18) to the hanging R facing corner leading onto Rotten Row.

Follow Rotten Row, continue up the wall above or rappel from the rings about 8m R of the corner. There is a single U-bolt overhead at the base of the Driftwood chimney; a 60m abseil from this reaches the ground.

Gear: 1 set each of RPs & wires, 1 each hand & fist size cam, 2 each finger-thin hand size cams, 2-3 sets of micro cams including the smallest pieces you can find, double ropes & plenty of draws.

Stuart Hollaway, Peter Arch & Alice Arch, 4/4/12.

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