Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Topic Date User

Sublimate this! 27-Feb-2012 At 1:28:50 PM f_ladou

Message

On 27/02/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>Im always surprised how long chalk lasts on steep rock - but who knows!
>The traverse pitch has only had one ascent that I know of. It sounds like
>you setup your belay in the middle of the traverse (easy to get confused
>as Castaway crosses it and there is a bit of a mess of bolts at that point
>- easy to think that two of those bolts were the belay). The actual first
>belay is about 7m to the right around an arete - the crux move if a fingery
>traverse with none of that helpful ledge that then appears!

That's exactly what I thought. When Cass abseiled down, I asked her to look around the arête and see if she could see the actual start belay but it turned out to be too much trouble and, as I mentioned, I wanted to get on with the show.

> Was the top manky grey bit wet?

No, it was stubbornly bulgingly dry.

>Another tip before i forget - to rap in its best to actually FIX a scond
>60m rope to the chain - then you can rap clean down to the second anchor
>- then its only one 30m rap on a doubled lead rope down to the bottom belay.
>Much quicker that way. Also means you have an escape rope up Castaway is
>the heavens open or doing the 65m pitch is all too much.

Good tip. I might just do that next time. Soon.