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TR Climbing round Beijing 23-Sep-2011 At 1:48:18 PM rufus

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here is the deal...i live in yangshuo and have lived here for 4 years.

first..the yangshuo access initiative (YAI) is no longer a viable entity, i was a contributor to the site and the activities, but too many inter-community politics prevented it from taking off, plus the main guy went back to the states.

second..the local organization Yangshuo climbers association (YSCA), is startign to get their shit together and is actually dealing with some of the acces stuff...their approach is mostly hands off, but they are aware of the situation and deal with it quickly when it necessitates and in the best chinese way.

the current situation...white mountain is fine, no problems for at least two years now. except the fact that some of it is getting well overused.

wine bottle, baby frog, and the thumb...there was a group of individuals who bought a contract for these crags and tried to profit off ot it but realised they can not make money on free climbers. they really wanted to make money on the huge groups of students and chinese tourists that hire the local guiding companies (YSCA) for field trips but these companies (YSCA) purchased a contract to swiss cheese and averted this conflict. since these companies have removed their clients from the three crags noted above, the group of individual who bought the contract, have since backed out and have not been a problem for about 4 months. wine bottle is completely open. the thumb is open. but baby frog had hangers removed, and the YSCA has decided to wait another year and let the issue settle completely until they replace them...baby frog closed.

i will repeat this....the problem is the large groups....not the free climbers. please come and climb everything you want.

the festival in yangshuo will be held much later than usual. the YSCA has lost Black diamond as the main sponsor (not sure why), but ahs picked up another one. currently they are debating the schedule and all the specifics of it...the festival will be held during the first week of decemeber, tentatively.

yes there is a petzl roctrip in China this year. it is the last 6 days of october. I would strongly recommend traveling to yangshuo first before you go to Getu HE. the roctrip is in the middle of no where, there will be about 50 climbers, maybe more heading to Getu HE from yangshuo. you are wlecome to join us. You must register on line for the Petzl Roctrip. go to their website.

the yangshuo area has seen a mass explosion of developed routes this year. well mabe not yet, but close to it. in the past year we have bolted approximately 100 new routes...the total is now somewhere around 600.