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Attilla and Zig Zag, Blueys 24-Dec-2010 At 7:15:46 AM evanbb

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Not an actual trip report, but where do route reviews belong?

Climbed sandstone again yesterday and my god it's an improvement over Canberra granite. Say what you like about cheesy Blueys rock, which there was some of, but Canberra just doesn't have such solid continuous lines.

So, we ticked Attilla at Corroboree Walls, which reads really well in the 07 Carter guide, but was probably not as classic as the 4? stars suggests. Also if that's 86m of climbing then the first ascent must have started in the creek. Steve did the first 3 pitches in one 45m pitch, then there's only 20m at absolute most to the top. Hilariously, I couldn't fit into the squeeze chimney at the top without taking off my harness. I thought I fit in last time too. Otherwise it's a pretty fun route, but some creativity is required to dodge the shonky bits of rock. Some good climbing, 15 probably about the right grade, but it looks heaps easier from the ground.

Then we toddled over to Zig Zag because Steve wanted to lead Fer de Lance, a 19 that goes up an arching corner with good jams and laybacks until you get into the traverse which mostly requires footwork.

But the main one I wanted to mention was Turkish Delight, right down the end. I hope that he did it intentionally to maintain a spirit of adventure, but we've done a few routes now that barely rate a mention in the guide but are trad classics worthy of at least a couple of stars, particularly in the 5 star system. TD is a lumpy, steep corner, full of jugs and stances, with some funky moves into a hanging chimney. The gear was bomber the whole way and climbing it required a pretty varied set of skills. Totally worth the walk.

While you're down there, check out Transcendental Meditation. A roof crack to hanging off width, which is sometimes a waterfall. Buggered if I know how it could be climbed now, let alone in the Dark Ages.