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Rod's Euro 2010 - Trip Report 10-Sep-2010 At 5:55:48 PM rod
Davidn got it in one, add the classic long effort redpoint tremble. What makes it hard for me is section 2 and 3 being all the crimpers, smedges and core work after having deployed the amount of power needed for the first sequence. I'm at the point of trembling by the time I reach the real crux. It's just like my usual redpoint issues on routes. Considering that I couldn't do a single one of the sequences a week ago I'm really happy with the outcome.

I'm going to describe it so I can remember it later...warning, if you're not into the infinitely descriptive route description thing then stop reading now, it'll be boring.

First crux opens through an overhang with a big lateral move right to side pull, feet off swing moving legs and hips as far right as you can get, couple of savage cross through moves on quartzite crystal crimpers, set up a deep egyptian then extend out of that into a LH throw for a nice flake. A few big shouldery moves follow through what are relative jugs, just really far apart.

All of that section is in my style but shuts down a lot of lightweights who are good face climbers.

Then it goes my anti-style through a sequence of 6 overhanging crimpers on smedges finishing with a crimpy cross through on smears, fairly physical throughout which drains the core somewhat, then no rest into the 3 real crux moves.

Sets up on what prove to be surprisingly delicate edges for the feet, really difficult to make them as useful as they appear. RH crimper that you have to take not on the first pad but onto the ends of the fingers, then pull a move which ends up with about 90% body weight going onto those finger ends, its a cross through which in my case induces a slight swing away from the crimper just as I'm about to latch the LH two finger crimp in front of my RH nipple. That move shut me down plenty of times, classic redpoint crux issue of just being able to do it fresh but not when you've used a load of juice.

Stick that and reset the core before a long RH reach for a very poor inverse crimp, again with inadequate power you tend to drift away from the face and fall out of the move. If you get it and can bear the fingertip pain whilst having to re-core its just a case of a headbutt/slight pelvis thrust to induce a lunge rightward for another really good first finger pad RH inverse crimp. LF cross behind for external LF smedge, long stem for RF smedge, get the hips right into the wall, upper body as far off the rock face as you dare to eye up the hold then use instinct to launch a rightward 1 hand dyno...latch that and you're a happy man!

2 hand moves on jugs to the finish and a bit of a disbelief sensation.

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