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TR, Slipstream plus 2 new pitches 28-Aug-2010 At 11:46:45 PM f_ladou

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Hi Neil,

>Pitch 1 has a tricky slabby technical move - a perfect Claw sandbag. For
>me it was the hardest move on the route.

Exactly the same for me. That undercling pocket got me stumped despite Mike's careful instructions.

>Pitch 2 was sustained gritty ironstone edges. Not my style at all - I
>struggled again. This was the 2nd hardest moves I did all day!

Not a single recollection of that pitch other than it was easier than the first one. Curious.

>Pitch 3 - This is the good pitch, and a great pumper. No hard moves, just
>lots of them! It's a shame the first 10m or so was a pile of decaying poo.
>The runouts were certainly exciting near the end (classic exponential bolting).
>With a couple of more bolts this pitch would probably be a grade 22. The
>crux was psyching up for the runouts. :-)

Exponential bolting indeed. Very low density of bolts in that area. I found the first 10m quite good in fact: a little bridging to start with then committing to the face traverse was quite exciting.

>Pitch 4 - what a ridiculous exposed roof move! Heart stopping.... the
>rest was a dawdle, but really good rock. Would classic mid teen route bar
>the roof bit.

I seconded that pitch and found the roof really fun: both hands in the break, really high left heel hook and then hard pull up onto the slab. Lost some skin there, especially after pitch three which is quite abrasive.

>Pitch 5 has some bizarre roofy plate rock (seaping) then an ugly mantle
>into a slot. Well that's the way I did it - perhaps there was a better
>way?

No mantle require if you aim left for the slot instead of going straight up into it.

>It's a good route but really only pitch 3 is a classic pitch. If Rutger
>Heur gets five stars I reckon this would be three. If you haven't done
>anything in the area I'd suggest doing Date with Density first - or if
>24 is a bit hard do the Yak Banquet linkup described in the guide (22).
>The Next Doctor at Bellbird Wall is another goodie in the sun. Both are
>a lot more sustained.

That sounds like a plan. I think I have a date with density now. Gotta go.

François