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TR, Slipstream plus 2 new pitches 23-Aug-2010 At 2:16:59 PM f_ladou

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Mike wanted to repeat Slipstream on the weekend. "Slipstream?" I said. He then wrote:

"5 minutes walk in, 5 raps, 5 pitches, 5 stars"

Well, Mike Law is a complete liar: the walk in is at least 10 minutes, we only did three abseils and we did the climb in 6 pitches.

That being said, I concede the 5 stars.

Man it was a nice day for the three of us, Mike, Dominik and I. Hard to believe that the weather can be so pleasant when the forecast is only 12° max. Out the in the sun, sheltered from the breeze, it was perfect. Perfect. Mike put on his beany on the last pitch but probably only to show it off together with his black and white zebra gore-tex jacket.

Anyway...

Mike tackled the first two pitches (23, 22) flawlessly. Earlier on, he mentioned having trouble on these pitches the previous weekend but the way he cruised up, he must have been on drugs or something (unless he was on drugs yesterday?).

Next, I tackled the marathon third pitch (50m, 23). This pitch ranks amongst the best 23 I've been on. It's stellar: check out the picture below and drool. The climbing is sustained and the pitch probably overhangs by 4 meters over its length. When it finally eases, near the belay ledge, Ado bolted it for the more stoic amongst us. That section requires to stay zen (can one be zen-ed out?).

The fourth pitch was Dominik's. The "crazy little roof" right at the start is quite daunting and got Dominik stumped for a little while but after some prospection (I like that word: the act of looking forward in time and considering the future), he pulled through onto easier grounds and sailed up. That pitch is probably grade 18 if you forget the roof. Extremely fun.

Déjà vu: the fifth pitch is like a repeat of the fourth. Did the Matrix reboot the system? Another crazy rooflet leading to easier ground. I seconded that pitch and ended up dangling into the void shouting to be lowered a couple of meter. Not a good look but no one around to witness it. As I committed to the roof, one foot pressing on a pebble, one heel hooked, I reached for a jug with my left arm. I knew I was in trouble when my fingers ended up in a bucket of water. With my left hand more or less useless despite my effort to dry it on my shirt, I let go and swung into the Grose...

All and all, a terrific extended route. On a sunny winter day, where else would you want to be?

Cheers, François

Myself on the marathon pitch three (23, 50m) - drool-worthy.

Mike focussed seconding pitch 3 (23, 50m) - love that shirt.