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Sluj Gulpa - The Gib 7-Jun-2010 At 10:44:30 AM f_ladou

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Hi guys,

It's already 9 months ago that Dominik, Alex and I jumped on Sluj Gulpa (50m, 23, 23,23). We did it again this weekend, this time sans Alex -- the man had to prepare for his 6 week "work" trip in Europe (life's hard, but somebody has to do it).

It's always interesting to revisit a climb after a few months. Some things are as we remember them, some are as we wish we remember...

This time I lead the first short pitch. Although wet in the first section, I managed it without too much trouble. The hand traverse (see above picture) is REALLY fun and committing and I wished it would keep on going a little longer before reaching the belay ledge just around the corner. Dominik took care of the second technical, balancy pitch brilliantly. Probably the hardest move is getting off the belay unless it is the very thin and delicate stretch a little higher leading to the arête. In any case, this is an excellent pitch on small holds. Not that I have a lot of experience on granite, but I'm told this is quite typical.

The last pitch is of a totally different character. First there is a short traverse where precise footwork is required followed by a long overhanging section travelling along a diagonal flake. Great, great climbing if strenuous. I pushed hard, clipped the last draw but ran out of steam just before topping out. I cursed myself when I realised there was a splendid foothold that I missed and that makes that last move rather easy.

One good thing about Sluj Gulpa is that it is very well protected. So, if 23 is you limit, you can still get onto it without too much mental stress. Still the commitment is very real on that last pitch. And since the whole climb is rather short, you can afford to sip on a coffee in town before finishing the day at Mount Alexandra where the grading is quite a bit stiffer.

So, what are you waiting for?

Ciao, François