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Camels Hump 3/2

alrob

4-Mar-2004
1:27:57 PM

After many 'yes its going ahead's, no its not's', i finally conned Paul into coming with me to camels for the arvo. A quick tour aroud the city in order to get on the right side of the road for a pick up from uni, and a sceninc drive through flemington and moonee ponds, in search of the golden Chemart for a purchase of some holy finger tape, we finally found the calder and it was pedal to the vinyl plastic of the floor protectors. There by 3, we were greeted with a nice cool breeze and a vacant car park.

As usual, the warmup was to be a solid pump on Boogie Till You Puke, 21. I've probably said this many times before, but what a stellar line. flash pump gone, and a quick check of the little 10m 24 Thundering guns, saw me trudging all the way back to the car to find those elusive wires i had left, in the ignorance of "we're only climbing sport today, why add MORE weight to the pack". As thundering guns has carrots, and we have no bolt plates, a dodgy clipping of treaded wires was in order. Very dodgy. So up i went, keen to try and knock this over onsight. well, not quite. After one fall at the second bolt, it was runout central, skipping the last bolt and beaching myself over the top. Untie, and quick walk down, up again i went, for the successfull tick. Needless to say, all i had to do was hold the rope out, and Paul knew that he had to tie in, somewhat whinging while doing so. Hoping that he actually saw my sequence and he would get the flash, he was continually spat off at the second bolt. Finally pulling the move to the crimp, and shaking the rope into the draw, he emerged on top. When asked if he wanted another try at a clean tick, the hurried untying of his shoes was all to clear.

What better way to redeem himself then to be draw monkey on Bop Till You Drop, 25. A very reluctant "mmmm, ooookkkk", and he was off. After his first few falls between the second and third draw, a light bulb above his head appeared...."oooohhh, NOW i remember the sequence" Considering it was only a few weeks before that we had been on it, you would think Paul would forget his head if it wasn't screwed on. Back on the ground, it was my turn. To my absolute astonishment, i cruised up through the middle of the wall, through the thin crimps, to the 3rd draw, then the next few moves, up to the massive jug, which symbolises success. My first 25, and on my 3rd shot, the first of the day! Not to be outdone, Paul sent it in similar style.

To finish the day off, i decided to have a crack at Satanic Verses. Um, thin anyone???? Jeezus! dogging every clip to the eventual top, it was deemed very much way too hard, and shall be dealt with later on.

As time was of the essence, a whinging and wining Paul, who was upset at the fact that we were not stopping for gelati in brunswick, had to settle with a chocolate super sundae with a flake from Macca's. I couldnt' complain either.

nmonteith

4-Mar-2004
1:34:54 PM

Wires over bolts = death. I can't believe you dogged the route using them!

phil_nev

4-Mar-2004
7:34:28 PM

Congrats on the ticks all, well done. Ull have to give me the beta on bop as im yet to give it another bash....

Also, congratulations on surviving the day, wires over bolts should be an absolute last resort even on a runout old school trad route... I advise against similar use in the future...

Cheers, Phil

alrob

4-Mar-2004
9:10:31 PM

>
>Also, congratulations on surviving the day, wires over bolts should be
>an absolute last resort even on a runout old school trad route... I advise
>against similar use in the future...
>
>Cheers, Phil

thanks! initially i didn't realise it was carrots, but it didn't seem too bad, and not too runout. me thinks some bolt plates are to be the next purchase!

Robin

5-Mar-2004
6:50:07 PM

Wires on bolts should be a last resort but from what I have seen (and experienced) they work. Also I've found at crags like Black Hill my bolt plates don't always fit over the bolts so it pays to carry a couple of small wires just in case. Another even dodgier practice, yet effective, is to loop 2 or 3 wires together and use them to wire clip the bolt. Very dodgy but if the gear is desperate and you can't reach the bolt it works. Just remember to tighten the wire head around the bolt shaft before climbing above it.

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