Shaz and I did the "Sublime and the Beautiful" last weekend. We took it easy on the way down from Sublime Point Lookout as Shaz' ankle was still tender but found the starting point rapidly: veer off the access track to "Sweet Dreams" before reaching the via-ferrata section and follow the steel rung ladder and fixed ropes up to the beautiful orange "Bentrovarto Wall". Go to the right hand corner and you will see the shiny new bolts of S&B raising diagonally up, left to right. The first clip is really high. Really. Stick clip it if you can or otherwise, do like Shaz, and terrorise your belay partner.
The first pitch (20m, 18), I found excellent if a tad difficult for the grade. Shaz took care of that one, no probs. She also tackled the second pitch (35m, 22) which certainly deserve to be referred to as "the money pitch" in the online guidebook. The difficulty lies in a long and blank section (Shaz: "right, another blank-a-thon" coming up!") spanning two or three clips. That being said, the route is very well protected.
Being a gentleman, I offerred Shaz the last pitch as well (ok, ok, I was pumped after seconding that second pitch). Although graded at 20, it is certainly no more difficult that the first pitch -- at least not as technical. Perhaps the really exciting exposure as one moves onto the arête accounts for the grading? What do you think, Shaz?
So, if you have a day to spare, go and check out "Bentrovarto Wall" where a dozen new routes and hundreds of shiny new bolts are just waiting for you. I know I'll go back soon.
Cheers, François
P.S. And thanks to the guys: Jason Lammers, Steven Ahern and Ado Childs for putting the route up! |