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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports
Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!
Topic
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Date |
User
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Buffalo Aid Weekend March 2010 |
23-Mar-2010 At 5:30:13 PM |
bl@ke
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Message |
Fish Boy arrived at my place at around 9 o clock on friday night and we began our journey to the mt. We arrived at around 11.20 and located M9 and had a bit of a chat before hitting the hay. I awoke the next morning and met all the other attendees and had a quick breakfast. As most of us were settling into the first coffee of the day M9 got me to drag out his wombat (haul bag) and he then gave us a rundown on his aid gear and the systems he uses. After that we all headed for the disabled lookout to finally touch rock. Fish Boy and I decide that the 3 routes at the lookout will be busy for a while so I stock up on small cams and we make our way to Lift girls lament 22. We fix a static line and rap down to the hanging belay. I start my aiding pretty dodgyly and do 2 M1 and a half moves before a chicken out and hand the reins over to Superfish who aids it faster then my normal freeclimbing speed! I thought aid was slow. I was yet to find out what some M4 can do to your flow and speed.
So i jug out and head back to the Disabled lookout.
Thanksgiving crack M3 is free for an aid so i jump on while Fish Boy goes off to solo aid Zeus.
I start off well placing RP's and soon find myself at a bit of a tricky spot. I place a number 1 RP and test it and it blows, i find another number 1 Rp placment but it too blows. I step up another step and get in an awsome number 3 Rp in. I place a hex and a few cams and find myself at a very old carrot bolt. Dam i forgot my hangers, o well. I put a wire over the bolt and give it a bounce because i dont trust it fully. I can now see a bunch of tourists at the lookout. Almost at the top i say, but i am too chicken to mantle my way to glory. I place a bodyweight nut about a foot higher and try to top out. I still dont feel comfy with the topout position so i step down and sit on my fifi, Bang! My nut has popped, I am screaming, i am falling. I keep falling. I fell something wrapped around my wrist. Finaly my plummet stop and after i realise fully what has happened i like out a loud WooHooo! what a rush! i am lowered to the ground and i relax for a moment before i walk up to the top, rap down and clean as i go. My wrist is a little rope or daisy chain burnt but nothin that bad.
I walk back up to the top to take my rope off parks super anchor that they have kindly instaled for us climbers to use. As i am flaking my rope i hear a thud and some sort of groaning noise. Sh!t i say and i run down to see the damage. We all know the rest of the story. I was expecting to see a body with some frothy stuff coming out the mouth but i was glad it ended the way it did.
That night we had a good few yarns over a meal and we were all keen to see what the next day would bring. |
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