Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Topic Date User

Of cyborg and creator – Rutger Hauer 1-Mar-2010 At 2:56:51 PM f_ladou

Message

Driving along the Great Western Highway, Shaz asked me "Who's this Rutger Hauer, anyway?". I looked at Alex and he was as nonplussed as I was. A quick Google search revealed he played the reflective, if slightly psychopathic, cyborg in search of longer life in Blade Runner ("I've seen things you people wouln'td believe..."). In fact, Rutger was wanting to meet his creator - something I certainly did not intend to do on this trip.

And as to why Mike Law and co named their recent climb "Rutger Hauer" (105m, 20, 22, 23, 19), it is beyond me (Mike?).

We parked the car as instructed on Bells Line of Road, found the path leading to the top of Hotel California, located the "beautiful elliptical rock formation" (they are) geared up and proceeded with the two abseils down to the base of the so-called "Yesterday's Groove" area. For once we didn't get lost on the walk-in. The day was looking good, overcast and in the low 20s, the North Wall of the Grose Valley staying anyway in the shade until 3-ish at this time of year.

Shaz who had been partying hard the night before recovered all her enthusiasm as she began the abseil. By the time we got to the foot of the climb it was 12:00 and she was totally stoked. But it was Alex who was up for the first pitch (20). Basically, he waltzed up it and both Shaz and I followed. It is indeed juggy as Mike describes it but the rock is of dubious quality on the first half of the pitch. The typical sandy convoluted, patterned sandstone found at that level in the Grose Valley. Nothing to worry about though.

The second pitch (22) was for Shaz. She started it confidently and after 10 meter of tense silence, I asked "How is it Shaz?". Normally, I expect something like "sustained", "good", "hard", or something along those lines. Shaz was obviously enjoying her adherence time as she looked down on us and with the brightest of smiles said "How great is this!". She quickly reached the crux just below the second belay ledge: "ok, i need to bust a move here". Which she did and doing so ticked the second pitch with elegance. At the same crux, I ended up sitting in the rope after a foothold broke under my delicate 80 kilogram touch. Not that it matters greatly since there are footholds aplenty in that section. No jugs though.

The third pitch (23) was mine. It is a great pitch. Exceptional pitch. It is both pumpy and technical with a long final stretch requiring constant concentration and fine footwork. There is little rest except for a potential knee-bar about half-way up depending how tall you are. I thought I would make it clean to the ledge but the pump got the best of me just 2 clips before the end. Suspended 200 meters above the ground, the Grose Valley looked truly majestic. After a short rest, I managed to set up belay after a series of strenuous and rather technical moves.

The fourth and last pitch (19) is rather a formality when compared to the three preceding ones. Alex once more took care of it. If you can do a slight overhang on jugs, then you're home and hosed in no time, which we all were by 4:00. So overall, 4 hours to climb the four pitches. Car to car, including the two 25 minute walk-in/out, rap station finding, two 50 meter abseils and route finding, our trip kept us busy for 6 or 7 hours. A party of two would shave quite a bit of time.

Concerning the grading, I'd say that the third pitch is a couple of grades harder than the second. If this is a 23, I'd say the second should be a 21. Not sure if that makes the first one a 19 or not, though. But you (I hope) be the judge.

And to quote Shaz: "What an awesome climb!"

I agree.

Cheers, François

Alex leading pitch one (20)

Shaz on pitch two (22)

François starting pitch three (23) – check out the view!

A concentrated Shaz seconding pitch three (23) – another tick!