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The Inconvenient Side of the Glass 11-Nov-2009 At 9:37:02 AM f_ladou

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Sunday was a rainy day and it spoils our plan to have a fun day out at Palm Beach introducing two
friends to outdoor climbing. So, we had to get back at God and plan something evil. Since Monday
was forecasted to be a beautiful day in the Blueys, I decided to take a day off (the evil part) to have a
taste of "The inconvenient Truth" [100m, 18, 10, 17, 18, 20] and "On Both Sides of the Glass" [85m,
18, 18, 15]. Both climbs came highly recommended by my colleague/friend Craig and come with
strings of stars in Carter's guidebook.

This time - as well as the usual germano-austrian suspects Alex and Dominik - Guillaume, a dubious
Frenchman, joined us. So, two parties of two, one to handle the "Truth" (get it? cheesy, I know) and
the other the "Glass".

After our recent outing at Narrow Neck to do Lief Ericsson (see previous trip trip report), I felt quite
certain we should be able to handle those two routes quite comfortably even though they are "mixed"
and thus involve some gear placement: I don't place gear very often...

So, Guillaume and I geared up at the base of "The Inconvenient Truth", while Alex and Dominik
contemplated "On Both SIdes of the Glass". This whole set up turned out to be quite fun since the two
routes are about 50 meters apart so that you can see the other party progressing (or struggling,
depending). Makes for some good pictures.

Guillaume and I decided to run the first two pitches together. Basically, I didn't feel like building a trad
belay at the top of pitch one (also known as "Persistence of Memory") just to secure the 10 meters of
pitch 2. I suspected that rope drag could be an issue as the second pitch starts with a 5 meter
traverse. But hey, a little rope drag never harmed anyone.

The first pitch is excellent, there is essentially 2 bolts to cover the 30 meters but can easily be
protected with a few large cams. That pitch, which runs along a prominent arête, provides a fantastic
move across the arête onto the adjoining face: grab the arête, step up, pull and taste the exposure:
fantastic. If only for that move, the "Truth" deserves its four star rating. Again, the 5 meter traverse of
pitch 2 can be protected with a large cam but is followed by a 6 or 7 meter easy (grade 16 or so) but
completely unprotectable slab-ish stretch: good for the soul, man.

Guillaume tackled the 3rd pitch, a beautiful arête running up 30 meters (see pic below). The grade is
right at about 17 but some sections are really run out. Of course, it would help not to skip bolts like
Guillaume did. Again lots of exposure before reaching a comfortable belay.

Like the first two pitches, I decided to run the last two together: 15m grade 18 and 15 meter grade 20.
These last two pitches are well protected and require no natural protection. I got without any trouble to
the last belay following the beautiful featured orange wall, and clipped into one of the double ring bolts.
I was looking forward to the last pitch. Left of the belay were enticing ring bolts. I clipped the first two
thinking this is pretty damn hard, sat in the rope for a little while. At that point, Gaullaume pointed out
that there was another line of bolt to the right of the belay. Hmm, perhaps that'd be the grade 20 fifth
pitch? Anyway, I decided to press on, pulled hard on a sharp pocket which snapped off returning me
instantly to sitting position. Did a couple of strenuous moves, clipped the last visible ring bolts by the
skin of my teeth holding to some shitty little crimpy hold. Of course, had I bothered to move up 50 cm,
I could have clipped holding a comfy horizontal break. But hey, that's leading, right? The finish
requires to pull through a small overhang on jugs to reach the belay (two carrots). Guillaume followed
quickly and the whole thing was over by 14:00. So overall, 4 hours car to car.

So does anybody knows about the alternate finish to the climb? I'd be curious to know.

Since we had finished eating our lunch around 2:30, Alex suggested to finish the day climbing up
"Flying Spectables" [55m, 19,19]. Another excellent, excellent fully protected (carrots and rings at the
top) climb next to our abseil point: Cave Climb.

So, set aside a day, drive up to Katoomba, look for Narrow Neck and get onto it. You won't regret it!

Cheers, François

Myself on pitch 3 of the "Truth"

Guillaume belaying on top of pitch 3 of the "Truth".