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Topic Date User

Doing stupid things in the Grose (Darkside) 2-Mar-2009 At 10:32:07 AM mikepatt

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I went out to have a look at Darkside on Saturday and I realised that there aren't a lot of classic wide chimneys in the Bluies. Also, taking thecrag.com as a yardstick, Darkside doesn't get a lot of traffic. Perhaps because it's a grade 14 in grade 19 territory or simply because chimneys don't attract the punters. Anyway with a combination of bridging and backing up the first pitch isn't (IMHO) too difficult. I did, however, do a bit of damage to my back (despite turning round) and would suggest aspiring ascentionists wear more than just a cotton T shirt.
I found the second pitch slightly more worrying due to the rock quality and the steep moves up the corner but even those are well protected.
As to the overall grade it could be anywhere between 12 and 16, but it's certainly not a relaxing multipitch climb in the 'tradition' of Tom Thumb.
We also experience an extreme 'wind tunnel' effect which may have spooked me a bit leading pitch two. If anyone visits and there's a strong W or WSW wind blowing this will feel like an express train passing through the chimney. (Our rap ropes also got tangled on the second rap a the chockstone at the other side of the chimney to the rap point)

p.s. Thanks Mikl for fixing up the top rap point. Also the carrot on pitch three between the pinacle and the ring bolts looks very rusty..