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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

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Topic Date User
Repeat and retrobolt best easy route at Buffalo 8-Mar-2008 At 8:54:54 AM hipster
Message
On 7/03/2008 bomber pro wrote:
>Ado, I don't see what problem you have? there are lots of the type of routes
>that you say are your
>preferred style at Buffalo. you could even put up a whole bunch more for
>others that feel the same way
>you do! just pick a blank face (loads of those up there) and climb it,
>don't worry about the lack of gear if
>there is none! that's the style you love! right! IF YOU"RE ONSIGHTING
>AT THE GRADE AT BUFFALO.
>Personally I think that if there are a few of both types of climbs, the
>run out horror shows, and the easy
>to protect classics...... then everyone will be happy!

That's the thing bomber, there already is plenty of easy to protect classics, and rarely anyone up there climbing them!! I'm not after run-out horror shows, you've misinterpreted me, I just believe the whinging and complaining about the existing routes at Buffalo is unfounded, and that the mix is already right between easy and hard to protect routes. Do you even know the history of the recent un-consented retro bolting I refered to??
Unprotected slabs run-out is not the style I love..wtf?? What I do respect is the style of bolting that exists on the slabs and dykes. I still aspire to lead some of them.
I have to go down to my local crag and watch punters stick clip bolts to protect routes that were once a bit bold, and I have to shake my head and walk away.

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