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Topic Date User

Repeat and retrobolt best easy route at Buffalo 7-Mar-2008 At 4:50:53 PM hipster

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On 7/03/2008 rolsen1 wrote:
>Thanks also to Joe for all the work he does making routes safe for all.

Making routes safe for all..I have a problem with this. Especially at Buffalo. Every time I drive up that hill from Porepunkah I have butterflies in my stomach and I feel sick because I know the mental anguish I'll be going through when I lead a climb. But that's the great thing about Buffalo, it should be encouraged, not written off as unsafe or dangerous. It's my mind and movement that's the problem, not the climb's protection. It's hard to climb well there, you take a huge kick in the guts grade-wise if all you do is sport climb, but what's wrong with that??
Why should the climbs be safe for all, more so why should easier routes be made safe so a beginner can lead them. It's not elitist, there's plenty of opportunity to top rope till you're comfortable on your feet. Yeah, I'll agree, some bolts are poorly placed on some routes, but I truly believe the majority of routes up there are safely protected to onsight, IF YOU'RE ONSIGHTING AT THE GRADE AT BUFFALO. Go out and practice it on a self-belay top-rope if you're not happy, that's what I do.
The grumblings of long-time first ascencionists at Buffalo over the retro-bolting of some routes without permission should be noted, the practice should stop, and let's leave this paradise as it is.
Got that off my chest..
Ado