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Lamplighter write up on UKClimbing

maxdacat

4-Jan-2008
11:21:44 AM

Thought this might be of interest to some:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=645

I did it years ago and don't remember too much (except the abseil down)...certainly no giant cam placements...not that i would have had any anyway. The article also mentions the new araps guide which i hope is out soon (ish).

steph

5-Feb-2008
11:04:22 AM

hexes man hexes :)

did this climb only a few weeks ago, loved it as always & it protects beautifully with the biggest hexes you can buy!

westie

23-Jun-2008
10:26:59 AM

At the roof did you head out right on the wall or right up under the roof placing pro in the crack? The photo and line is confusing. Not as good a climb as I expected. First pitch - a scramble, third a bit of bridging then a nasty thrutch in the roof. Second pitch was OK.

bluey

23-Jun-2008
11:33:43 AM

Interesting write up from UK climbing fellow - I was up on Lamplighter on the Queen's birthday weekend and after my mate had a 20 metre whipper on the second pitch the day before, ended up leading the whole thing the next day to retrieve the gear.

I had actually intended to write to Simey about some suggested clairifications for the Araps guide, some of which line up with this guys pointers -

Going up the off-width/narrow chimney instead of the actual line further right on the second pitch is definitely an easy mistake to make and the amount of chalk on the off-width proves it. It's difficult to see the route clearly in the selected guide piccies. The third pitch should be broken in two so your belayer is on that massive cave/ledge under the final roof as you head out. The roof pitch is very intimidating - cams at the first narrowing at the start for me (limited sizes of hexes to choose from and worried drag from the corner might pull the gear sideaways as I moved out under the roof), then a hex at the start of the second narrowing, followed by a cam out the other side for good measure.

I also thought a regrading of the third pitch to 14 could be in order. As a small'un, I had trouble getting my back into the otherside of the "cave" and so tenuous bridging replaced easier chimenying for most of the roof.

gfdonc

23-Jun-2008
12:04:51 PM

The roof pitch is a memorable experience for first-timers. A much more pleasant interesting finish (but probably less entertaining for the belayer) is up Lady Dihedral (15). Watch for loose rock.

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