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Mt Erica - 27.11.06

Paulie

27-Nov-2006
10:00:31 AM

More of an update than a TR.

The Mt Erica road is currently closed from about 700mtrs before the bridge. The work on the bridge looks like it's nearing completion.

I estimated the distance from where the road is currently closed to Mushroom Rocks to be around 6/7km - so 12/14km return. Uphill the entire way to the climbing = downhill all the way back. A mtb bike would be a good idea.

We left late in the day and didn't get to the climbing area (due to the unforseen walk in) until around 3pm. We also accidently left the guidebook at home ("I thought you had it...no, I thought YOU had it") so soloed a couple of things (finger crack and that the grade 12 slab in the campsite) that looked easy and put on a rope for what I think is the route "Take me Cuba - now - or I blow this thing sky high (22)" - looked easier from the ground...hate it when you leave the guidebook at home...lovely climbing with a really 'hard-to-read-on-the-onsight' crux move at the top (took me 3 goes to figure it out, then when reading the guidebook last night noticed that the authors put the crux beta in the route description - doh). I thought it quite hard for a 22, but then again I've only climbed once in 2 months...

Lovely area, great scenery and at 1200mtrs the temps were brilliant for climbing - much, much cooler than Buffalo at this time of year.

The rock struck me as being very similar to that at Felltimber (Wodonga) - Gritstonesque even. I noticed that the moss and lichen has overtaken half the routes and some of the ones described in the guidebook simply looked like they'd never even been cleaned, let alone climbed!

I reckon that the area overall has great potential for bouldering and reminded me of a mini-Fontainbleau. Would be nice just to go in there and camp and boulder for a weekend.

Anyway, if you're planning on going in then bear in mind the bloody long walk and take a mtb for the nice ride back down...

Paul

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