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21-Nov-2006 8:52:12 PM
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OK sports fans - here we go...
last weekend a group of dedicated (or crazy) climbers went in search of glory in the form of new routing.
I can report that not one climbing move was pulled the whole weekend.
I can report that we walked in 2 different ways and both took 4 hours on the way in. It was the hardest walking I've done in many years too. The 2003 fires took out all the under canopy, and it's all grown back at the same height, it's now about 2-3m high and thick as.
The cliff is awesome on the lower 2/3 (300m high). The top gets dirty. Lots of new routes to be done. The cliff is basically untouched. It is big. Very big.
I am keen to get back in there but the others on the last trip are perhaps wiser or more cautious than me.
Is anyone keen to check out this practically virgin area, and help sort out a more direct track in from the bottom?
Josef
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21-Nov-2006 8:56:34 PM
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Joe,
This cliff deserves siege techniques. Cut a proper track up the ridge. Approach your route from above, with a petrol drill and a bandoleer full of bolts. Don't think about walking along the bottom. It could be a mega crag of the future.
JamesMc
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21-Nov-2006 9:53:56 PM
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Hey James,
just sent you a bunch of photos from the weekend.
You're right. Let's seige. I'm in.
My contribution to date is 6 abseil stations. I'll send you a photo topo showing you where they are.
Keen to come in with us and put in a more direct track?
Ciao,
Joe
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22-Nov-2006 12:16:48 AM
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ive been lookin at a newrouting trip there too since seeing joes pics, looks choice!!... wanna join forces?
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22-Nov-2006 7:55:53 AM
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How about your unclimbed project at sahara pt first? Or maybe finish bolting your project at lost & found wall...then again you go that project you bolted on Motocross wall and give it try....or falling all that maybe that thing you bolted at the Heights could get an ascent......
....you dont neeed to go to Buffalo to sink steel and ignore...you got plenty already in NSW. :)
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22-Nov-2006 8:14:02 AM
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Hey Josh,
have you ever been down the Wolgan River past the Coke Ovens? There is so much great stuff to be done if you are into developing remote areas. Do you know Tom Williams? He put up Blood Brothers (22) which sounds pretty out there if you read the new Wolgan guide.
Yep - I'm keen to join forces. What about over the Christmas-new year break? I've got camp sites booked at Lake Catani 24 dec-07 Jan but would be keen to spend some time developing Nug Nug.
Anybody else crazy enough to join us? If you own a GPS that would be handy as I reckon I've sussed out a better way in.
PS I might just mention that this cliff is located pretty well due South of the tiny township of Nug Nug and is reffered to as "Buffalo Sugarloaf" on the maps. The GR is 774 430.
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22-Nov-2006 8:58:24 AM
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I'm planning on being down at Buffalo from about the 26th for a couple weeks anyway, so if that works out then TOO EASY!
I'll ring ya when I've sorted out & confirmed that I'll be down
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22-Nov-2006 8:59:15 AM
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On 21/11/2006 JamesMc wrote:
> This cliff deserves siege techniques. Cut a proper track up the
>ridge. Approach your route from above, with a petrol drill and a bandoleer
>full of bolts. Don't think about walking along the bottom. It could be
>a mega crag of the future.
I don't know if this is a joke or not? Lets try and keep a crag this remote at least a little bit natural. The
truth of the matter is that no-ones ever going to walk in and repeat anything you put up (4 hours slog as
opposed to 30sec for the Gorge!). Maybe go easy on the mass bolting. Use trad gear whenever you can.
It's never going to be a beginners cliff - so run it out.
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22-Nov-2006 9:01:39 AM
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I assumed he was joking Neil, if he's not I'll just go solo-aid all the new routes while they're cutting the track to make my walkout easier :)
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22-Nov-2006 9:04:52 AM
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Does it differ a lot from the other Buffalo climbing? I'd be interested to take a look at the photos if you have time to shoot some through Joe.
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22-Nov-2006 10:17:52 AM
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On 22/11/2006 rodw wrote:
>How about your unclimbed project at sahara pt first? Or maybe finish bolting
>your project at lost & found wall...then again you go that project you
>bolted on Motocross wall and give it try....or falling all that maybe
>that thing you bolted at the Heights could get an ascent......
>
>....you dont neeed to go to Buffalo to sink steel and ignore...you got
>plenty already in NSW. :)
haha! well lets go out to mt K then? im in sydney for a few days, how does this w/e sound?
with the exception of the heights proj (which i gave away about a year ago from memory) i plan on getting all that stuff done between now & christmas... ive even started training! :D
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22-Nov-2006 11:41:47 AM
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Sunday it is.
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22-Nov-2006 12:17:35 PM
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hi joe,
very interested when it gets a little cooler. we've been having mid-30's in albury already.
cheers,
stephen
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22-Nov-2006 2:21:19 PM
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On 22/11/2006 gordoste wrote:
>hi joe,
>very interested when it gets a little cooler. we've been having mid-30's
>in albury already.
Perfect weather for smearing then ;)
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22-Nov-2006 2:44:37 PM
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What aspect is the cliff Joe? Morning/afternoon sun? Any water nearby?
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22-Nov-2006 6:02:20 PM
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Hey all,
no water right at the base of the crag but there is a lovely cool stream about one kilometre downhill that
has the most beautiful crystal clear water.
The cliff is pretty big and has a few different aspects. Mainly faces west with a few that face North.
Generally sun post midday.
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7-Dec-2006 7:11:23 PM
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Hi Again,
right - here is your once in a lifetime offer:
guided tour of Nug Nug on December 27&28 (camping overnight at the crag).
Rare oppourtunity for climbing career development, only serious applicants need apply.
Pre-requisits: fit, strong(ability to carry heavy loads up steep unstable ground), drill and bolting knowledge & hardware ideal but not essential. New routing experience or strong lead experience on big walls preffered.
300m plus cliff. Lots of clean great quality rock with heaps of potential. Hell of a walk in though.
Who wants in? At this stage we have around 6 confirmed. Looking for say party size of 10 to make the track works easier on all.
What are you all waiting for? What an amazing oppourtunity!
Joe
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8-Dec-2006 10:58:20 AM
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Hey Joe,
You forgot to mention the 35deg temps, the hordes of black flies, the insane sweating leading to prickly heat sweat rashes and the arms that are too pumped from hand drilling to hold onto anything...good thing it's smearing based climbing though I guess :)
Great fun though, I'd be there in a flash if I wasn't going to sit on the beach over that weekend
Have fun mate!
Paulie
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8-Dec-2006 6:19:46 PM
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Did I mention the harem of Tahitian Princesses who will sooth away any cares you may have in this world, make you chilled G&T's and massage your feet?
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9-Dec-2006 8:23:00 AM
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OK - we have sucombed to the sad truth that this part of the world has a massive fire raging in it's midst and is unlikely to be sorted by the Christmas break.
We're off to Tassie instead where the bush fires hopefully can't spoil our plans!
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