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Mt Pilot 6th August

Paulie

7-Aug-2006
10:08:02 PM

Well it did indeed turn out to be a stunner of a day, real shorts and t-shirts weather - I even got sunburnt!

Perfect climbing weather and I think we ended up doing pretty much all the classics. For those who haven't been to Pilot I guess the rock is very similar to that of Tennerife, though the routes are a lot shorter. For those who haven't been there either - you really should, Vertigo is one of the best finger cracks around!

We climbed at The Bakery Wall (where the photos were taken) which is probably the best wall on a winters day as it's 15-20mtrs in height and contains some really nice routes at all levels of difficulty (well up to about 26 anyway) and gets full sun from sunrise to sunset. Around 8 of us turned up which almost made the crag seem crowded!

As usual there is little time for photos when it's a perfect climbing day, but for those few of you who've been to Pilot (I think only Jackie, Wormz and Neil?) you'll recognise the photos, for the rest there is a brief description.

Breakfast at the Ponderosa 15mtrs 15
Stephen Gordon cruising up this great little route. There are some fantastic jambs down low, though for those unaccustomed to rough granite on the backs of their hands, you may want to tape up! The route now goes left of the tree and back up to the lower offs.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=50181

Solo Man 15mtrs 15
A really sensational steep crack route with perfect gear, great jambs and good feet. Ben Mace finds that the wee roofy steep bit at the end provides the (well protected) difficulties but sails through it with ease.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=50182
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=50252

Big Fatty 10mtrs 16
A very different route for Mt Pilot - Ben Mace is shown climbing this vertical face route (the slabby start makes it appear to be slabby in the photos) on big flat tops with big reaches in between. Solid for the grade but it's (sadly) all over very quickly and you find yourself at the U-bolt lower off before you know it.
1. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=50183
2. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=50184

Beechworth Bakery 15mtrs 21
Me climbing what is perhaps the best climb for the grade in north east Vic? Certainly the best route for the grade at Mt Pilot. Sensational steep finger crack climbing from the ground to just below the top when It changes to delicate face climbing which, if you're pumped can seem quite hard. It takes awesome small gear and you can sew it up (and pump out in the process!) if you like.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=50185

Always happy to show people around so if you feel like sampling the Mt Pilot/Stanley area (the weather up here is truly awesome right now!) drop me or climbau or gordoski a PM.

Paul

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