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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
Holden Caulfield A3 at Mt Buffalo

maxots
4/04/2006
1:38:57 PM
trip report here

http://circus-maximus.blogspot.com/

photos posted soon when I can scan them!

nmonteith
4/04/2006
4:07:12 PM
Can Holden Caulfield be done as a clean aid route - if not - what rack of pins do i need?

maxots
4/04/2006
11:08:15 PM
No doubt someone will flame me for this but.....

yes it "can' be done clean. That day we met you and HB, he was telling us he aid soloed it clean, climbing
the crux beak seam on tiny equalised rps. I don't have to many qualms about climbing it on beaks as the
route is heavily reliant on fixed pins and other mank. in a lot of ways it is not a particularly natural line
through the roof, as the second half is 3mil bolts and rivets.

Originally it was nailed as far as I know, some one else?

Either way. the rack of pins we took was
2 x #1 pecker
5 x #2 pecker
2 x #3 pecker (i think this was more than we needed)

#4 and #6 knifeblade
#1 and #2 angle
2 x Lost arrows ( i forget which ones)

i also took a RURP in case i pulled a fixed one!

If you want better beta PM butters (chris fitzgerald) he remembers these things item by item!

would you be able to give me some Lord Gumtree beta Neil?

did you take a similar rack to ozy? or more small cams/small nuts? need hooks? camming hooks?


cheers
max

nmonteith
5/04/2006
8:58:37 AM
I don't remember much about the gear on Lord Gumtree - apart from the cam hooks being awesome
again. Pretty muc the ozy rack - lot sof small wires. Big cams for the flared offwidth woudl also be good
to have!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
18/04/2006
11:55:05 AM
>No doubt someone will flame me for this but.....

No flames, but I would encourage you to aspire to clean aid when/where-ever possible.

True; Col Reece finished out the roof on rivets (short manky 1/4" bolts), but the challenge is getting clean aid to stick up till the point of relying on the rivets. To this end peckers and beaks can often be hand-placed and are certainly sufficient for upward progress.

As a side note; the design of peckers/birdbeaks if not dissimilar to 'crack-n-ups' that were specifically designed to be placed by hand. The former are thinner but the angles are the same and the (slight) torqueing effect is integral to their successful application.

If you want an example of good clean aid and its minimal impact have a look at the 'Better than Disneyland' variation to Lord Gumtree ...

BTW I enjoyed your trip report maxots. Keep up the good work!

maxots
18/04/2006
12:05:47 PM
interesting to note that the new buffalo guide give it M7 as a clean aid route, a grade less when
hammered. I hadn't really thought about not hammering in the beaks, I was looking at the terrible RPs that
HB must have used and thinking "no gimme the hammer"

but yes it would be good to do it clean. Anyway I was unaware that there were two Holden Caulfield
pitches at the bottom, we just did the ozy pitches again : so I have to get on it again, and next time i'll
have to try it clean!

cheers M9
max

maxots
8/03/2007
9:21:34 PM
Just to update this (now 1 year old topic) I was killing time today and scanned and uploaded the photos of this trip. they can be found at

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78101100@N00/

all bad quality but give an idea of the route....

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15/03/2007
4:48:20 PM
I enjoyed 'your adventure' through your photos maxots.
Thanks for posting the link.

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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