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Stapylton 27-28 Sept 29-Sep-2003 At 4:19:35 PM Mike

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On 29/09/2003 Dalai wrote:
>Hey Mike, you need to start producing Chockstone.org clothing and caps

And a sign painted on my car it seems, so as people can find me at the pines. I actually talked to Steve about funding T-shirts once and he liked the idea, though we didn't take it any further. I dunno, maybe if someone came up with a cool design.

Not to hijack the thead, but here's what we got up to on the weekend...

_

Just a quick report of our excellent Araps trip last weekend. Cast: Myself, Brett, Brad, Roger, Jens.

Sat: Arrived 10am, no sign of Jens, so we headed to the all time classic warm up D-Minor (14). It was Brad's first trip to Araps, and Brett's 2nd, so a tour of the starred routes was in order. Having dispatched D-Minor with ease (marred only by a light drizzle), a quick TR of Aardvark (18) was set up while we chatted to some other climbers a top the pinnacle and dried off in the sun. Brett and Brad were both psyched to have taggged Aardvark with little or no falls, and called for a harder grade. Still no sign of Jens, so I threw the TR over the nearby Lemington (19) while we waited.

By the time it was set up, Roger (doggy) arrived with Jens in tow. Handshakes all round, and promises to meet up that night, before Roger decided to take Jens (new climber with Ebay rack!), up Piccalo (11). Lemington proved hard but doable for the lads, and the cry once again went for a harder grade. We departed to the pines for lunch while I thought what I might comfortably lead them up. Eyeing off the weather I decided not to commit to a big route. I thought about leading Tannin (19) again, but, as much as I loved it, I decided to leave it for a sunny day. Instead we moved over to P1 of Resignation (10), and TR'ed the 21 that meets the bolt belay, hoping that would slow them down. Slow them down it did. Brad stopped below the crux, and Brett got up eventually after much dogging and coaxing. I'd run up it first (bordering on being pumped myself) and didn't want to re-ascend just to pack up the anchors. With this in mind, Brett fought valiantly to the top, totally exhausted. Thanks Brett!

At this point another climber walked past and mentioned something about nesting Falcons between Resignation and Bard Buttress, so we hastily moved off. The hour was growing late, so I took them over to Castle Crag intending to lead up Swinging (17). Unfortunately another party was on it. No matter, I racked up and we waited. Shortly there-after said leader bailed at the crux, leaving the rope up there and offered me the sharp end. Hey, a free TR! Cool. A strange feeling leading above the last bolt, it still seemed like a top rope. Weird. If only I could harness that feeling for real leads. Brad nearly made it on 2nd with only a small dog, jumping straight back on and finishing it well. Brett, wing span of a condor, simply reached over the crux as per usual. We handed the dudes back their gear and thanked them for the use of their rope.

On the way back to camp we threw the rope over Dramp (21) as the sun set. Slippery in the feet as I remembered it, and with darkness approaching I opted for the good old zero technique method, and campused on up with much grunting. Brad tagged the crux hold after some valiant body twisting effort, but was unable to pull through, deciding to save the ascent for a fresh return. Brett was able to reach the crucial finger lock without even leaving the cave (go, go gadget arms!), but didn't quite have the energy to complete the sequence. Both vowed to return, and claimed to have had a blast of a day. We retired to a salami and veg pasta, and the company of Roger & Jens, and their kindly offered beers. Jens displayed his German Ebay rack - an interesting collection of used and new gear, including old style twin stem camalots mixed with old WC friends, used Petzl spirit draws mixed with new Kong wire gates, and an odd collection of nuts, hexes and slings. Not sure about leading on the old rope, one bit seemed fairly kinked. I suggested he used it for TR/abseil only.

Sun: The morning brought a bright sunny day and with it the prospect of a multi-pitch. Deliberation late last night had decided us on Moral Vandal (17) in the far northern group. I didn't think I'd done it before, though afterwards some of it seemed a little familiar, like maybe I'd 2nd'ed it once years ago or something. Anyway, it was a hoot. Just the right amount of challenge and gear. The crux proved to be the opening moves of P3, where-in a wide almost-body-crack opens onto better stances above. I took a small fall here onto an alien, before finding a nice foothold which enabled me move up and pug two miserable micro-wires into a laughable midget crack, then commit to the slippery moves above. Fortunately stems were soon possible and better pro appeared. Brad repeatedly exclaimed upon how fantastic the climb was, bringing a real zeal to the group that was infectious.

I wasted some time after topping out, rapping down and hunting for the bolt anchors to a nearby two star grade 20, hoping to TR it, but couldn't find the hardware, despite seeing the line of chalk that must have been the route. We walked off instead and retired to the car for lunch, stopping for a little bouldering on the way back. Brett wanted to lead something before the trip ended and asked for something, short, in the shade and about grade 12-15. Hmmmm. Tricky. We checked out Dec Crag, but nothing grabbed his attention, so we drove over to Mitre rock, where I suggested Deacons Dilemma (14) or one of the 8's next to it. Brett chose the 14, and racked up. I made him put in as much gear as the rock would take, and he sewed it up nicely, without only a couple of less than perfect pieces, which would have held anyway. A good lead, safely done. The wind atop Exodus block or whatever it's called, was ferocious, as I helped him with his belay station. By the time we'd got back to the car it was 4pm, so we decided to call it a day, and head on home, with a quick stop at the Nati mountain shop before the long drive back.

All up an excellent trip. Araps never ceases to please. I just love showing it off it new climbers. Brad was "foaming at the mouth" (his words) with excitement and already itching for a return trip. With a Jens ascent, he exclaimed: "I'll be back"!