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Red Rocks/Jaqs Cave Grampians 21st Sept 2003

12:42:42 PM
We had two days of superb weather with only a little rain on Sunday.

We had a great weekend with lots of ticks. On Saturday we went to Red Rocks in the Victoria Ranges. Jacqui and Kent ticked Vertebrae (19), Conflict of Interest (21), Strike the First Blow (25) and Spinal Tap (23). Kent’s onsight of Spinal Tap was very impressive. He ran out of quickdraws and being pumped senseless on the small ‘ledge’ below the last crux he had to do a reachy clip using only a single biner on the bolt. I thought he was gone for sure but he yelled and grunted his way to glory. Very impressive. I don’t think he stopped to breath at all.

I climbed with Tim Marsh during the day. I attempted HB's Red Rock Arete (23) (left side of main wall). I onsighted the lower half and reached a small ledge on the left side which i belayed on as my rope drag was evil as the route starts on the right side of the arete and weaves to the left side then goes back right again - double ropes required for sure which I didn't have. I didn't do the top half - I was a little scared. At least I have saved the onsight for another day! The lower half was committing in several places.

I then redpointed Wave of Mutilation (24) second shot and belayed Tim on his project in the trench. It looks desperate at the top mantling into the scoop – maybe 25? In the dark of night and in approach shoes I led a new route (grade 15) on the grey wall directly behind Fat Fingered Freak which has three BRs and the rest is good natural gear. I named it Height of Darkness. It is a fairly good route with lots of big pockets if you could actually see the holds!.

On Monday the weather wasn't looking that great - I was at the rock at 7am so I could squeeze as much into the day as possible. I bolted Isolation (23) – an excellent orange Arapilesian face then we went to the new area 'Jaqs Cave' near Scoop rocks. It is so named as it has some seriously big roofs which are perfect for Jacqui’s monkey madess. Kent, Jaq and myself took it in turns attempting my newly bolted roof route. It will be at least 26. We couldn't commit to the fifth bolt as it was still drying (it took me three days to bolt this over the last couple of months!). Crazy knee bars and roof moves across a 7m roof.

I then redpointed the FFA of Isolation (23) in the afternoon. One of my best new routes ever with two boudlery cruxes on great polished orange stone.

That was our weekend. I am very stuffed. No finger tips at all.

Photos are online here.

1:01:16 PM
Great pics and report Neil, makes me motivated to get out there and check it out!

1:30:58 PM
I am doing a VCC trip to Red Rocks on the 26th October if you are interested!

2:08:38 PM
doing a first aid course that w'end.. gonna be trundling up and down north jawbones track hehe lots of fun. thanks for the offer tho.. maybe head up there 11-12/10 instead

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